Line: Abigail Glaum-Lathbury

Background: Glaum-Lathbury, a Philadelphia native, studied design at the School of the Art Institute. After several stints working for other designers, she started her own eponymous line because “it became clear that it could be a reality.” She made a splash on the design scene with a showing in the Gen Art Fresh Faces runway show at Fashion Focus 2007.

The pieces: Structured, architectural clothing crafted from rich fabrics. With a focus on neutral colors, her collections are simple, expertly tailored, and combine clean lines with movement.

Designer inspirations: French designer Madeleine Vionnet. “She changed my way of thinking about patterns. She taught me that there aren’t really rules.”

Chicago inspirations: “The space. I have space to think.”

On being a designer in Chicago: “Everybody is very human here. It’s not about being a rock star, being cool. Everything superficial is beside the point. It’s just about working.”

What to look for: Glaum-Lathbury turns to a variety of things in the world for her collection inspiration—and once you know what to look for, you can easily spy it in her work. Look for a Fall ’08 collection inspired by the neurological system, and a Spring ’09 collection inspired by chickens.

Where to find Abigail Glaum-Lathbury: At Bucktown boutique p.45. View her work on her Web site, abigail-glaum-lathbury.com.

Line: Anna Fong

Background: Fong studied Fashion Design at Columbia College Chicago, and after a stint with Chaps Ralph Lauren in New York, she moved back to her hometown of Chicago to start her own line. In 2007, Fong (who is of Guatemalan and Chinese decent) won the 2007 AOL Latino Fashionista award, and was named a “rising star” by Fashion Group International.

The pieces: Classic clothing with modern details. Fong combines colors and neutrals, and her silhouettes elegantly hug a woman’s curves yet allow for plenty of movement.

Designer Inspirations: Carolina Herrera, Alexander McQueen, Elie Saab, Sonia Rykiel, Berardi, Chanel.

Chicago inspirations: “Fall in Chicago inspires me. I love the change of season and the smell of autumn in the brisk air. It makes me visualize stylishly layered garments in a mild winter setting.”

On being a designer in Chicago: “It’s definitely a competitive and challenging career choice. Chicago is giving local designers exposure, networking opportunities and workshops for designers to learn more about the business. On the other hand, we lack resources in regards to fabric suppliers, contractors and showrooms.”

What to look for: Keep your eyes peeled for Fong’s creation on the pages of glossy magazines. Celebrities have latched on to her collection, as Kimora Lee Simmons, Nadine Velazquez and former Miss Universe Dayanara Torres have donned her designs. Check out her Fall ‘08 trunk show at Malabar on October 11.

Where to find Anna Fong: Macy’s State Street. Also watch for her Web site launch at anna-fong.com.

Fashion subcultures thrive around the edges of the “mainstream,” if mainstream can be described roughly as that first reflected in the pages of Vogue, then progressing through the cycle, eventually spreading to mythical Middle America, knocked off at Wal-Mart, and of course, then left for dead. Sometimes the subcultures cross over (think streetwear’s influence and its hip-hop origins), sometimes they even take over, but often they just carry on in a parallel world, content to go their own direction, or to riff on evolving trends in the mainstream.

Clubland and the fashions it spawns are one such arena. Sure Ed Hardy bought a page in the September Vogue, but that’s the exception more than the rule; nightlife couture tend to set its own agenda. Amanda Vix and Kerry Kucan know something about club fashion. Inspired by the prevalence of leggings  the last few years, they decided to take it up a notch and create their own handmade and silkscreened numbers. “We thought, ‘let’s make them more rock, less go-go dancer,’” says Vix, who’s also a photographer. “We used to work bottle service at Crobar, and anyone who saw them just loved them.”

And so, Bootlegher was born, here in Chicago. Ranging in price from $45 for the silkscreened version to $75-$100 for custom designs, the budding designers will be selling their wares at Another Level, and have started showing them off at fashion shows in nightclubs, like their event tonight at NV Penthouse. (Brian Hieggelke)

116 W. Hubbard, 9pm-2am. The fashion show will begin at 10pm.

By Sharon Hoyer

The concept of sustainability hit the mainstream fashion world about a year ago—probably at the moment last fall when the New York Times Magazine ran an eight-page spread on eco-friendly haute couture—so we’re sure to see a handful of environmentally minded designs gracing the runway at this year’s Fashion Week. However, in a mercurial business like clothing design, responsible production runs the risk of falling out of vogue faster than parachute pants. The very term sustainable fashion can sound like little more than a thinly veiled attempt by an industry not exactly renowned for social or environmental cognizance to slap the prefix eco- on its name and greenwash its conscience of the whole affair.

However, there are designers creating precise sketches of what ethical fashion should look like. One of the most exacting and beautiful examples comes from Anne Novotny’s Chicago-based line, Frei Designs. Novotny pays as close attention to the environmental and economic impact of her fabrics and dyes as she does to the shape and drape of each garment she creates. She selects fabrics woven only from natural, pesticide-free fibers, colored with organic dyes like madder root and logwood, and manufactured by workers paid a living wage. Novotny also makes a concerted effort to support small mills and U.S. manufacturers.

The benefits of a responsibly produced garment extend to each hand that touches it, from the farm to the consumer. “Cotton farms have to increase pesticide use each year because insects develop immunity to the chemicals,” Novotny tells me as we look through the spring collection in her Pilsen studio. “Workers are exposed to these toxins. So are we. They stay in the fibers; we put them against our skin…where we sweat. Not a smart idea.”

After graduating from the Art Institute in 2004, Novotny worked in fashion in New York. Two years later she returned to Chicago to start her own line. “I couldn’t be just another designer; I wanted to keep my business in line with my ethics. And there isn’t a lot of avant-garde, high-end sustainable fashion. It’s mostly yoga and baby wear.” It’s somewhat surprising that an industry with as sizable profit margins as haute couture hasn’t dabbled more seriously in the increasingly fashionable realms of environmental and economic justice. However, organic fabrics do still evoke for many an image of burlap sack dresses cinched with twine. And then there’s the infamous relationship between clothing manufacturing and exploited foreign labor.

Frei Designs is evidence that ethical practices produce beautiful results. The misconception that “hemp” is synonymous with “frumpy” is put to rest by the fluid, casual elegance of a black wrap jacket in the fall collection. A white silk blouse with pillowed neckline appears not to fall, but float about the torso and hips. Pieces by Frei are stocked at several boutiques in Chicago, including Florodora, Robin Richman, Asinimali and, of course, the city’s first eco-boutique, Pivot.

In the face of Novotny’s infectious convictions, there’s one question I still feel compelled, albeit reluctantly, to ask. Fortunately, she volunteers the answer before I figure out how to pose it. “The first thing I’m always asked is if I feel there’s an inherent contradiction in what I’m doing.” She pauses. “I can’t afford these clothes, but some people can. There are those who spend $400 on a skirt. They might as well spend that money paying a fair wage to the workers who made the skirt and purchase a high quality and beautiful piece that isn’t full of harmful chemicals.” On the flip side, thrifty fashionistas should consider the hidden costs in the deals found on the racks in the Gap and H&M. “You may pay $5 for a shirt at the Gap and feel like you’ve gotten a great deal. Everybody loves a deal, but you have to consider the cost of making that shirt, the cost of shipping it to the U.S. from Asia; how much of that $5 is going to labor? The true cost of that shirt is shouldered somewhere along the line.”

The Frei spring collection is inspired by Buddhist teachings; an ethereal three-tiered wrap skirt in gauzy shades of orange suggests a string of Tibetan prayer flags. An endless, chunky, boa-like scarf references the tale of Angulimala—a ruthless highwayman who vowed to kill 1000 people, collecting one finger from each victim and stringing them on a necklace to keep tally. His necklace held 999 digits when he met the Buddha and found enlightenment. Novotny is drawn to the tale because she likes the idea that “we can be 999 fingers down the wrong path and still change.

The Sun-Times today carries a report that, not only was Michelle Obama wearing a Maria Pinto dress during her electrifying speech at the Democratic Convention Monday night, but that Barack Obama will make his speech tonight in a custom-made suit by Chicago’s own Hart Schaffner Marx. Noteworthy fact: Barack’s a 40-long with a 33 waist.

Coco Irene is not a woman, though if she were, you would definitely want to be her friend. She would be unfussy and down-to-earth yet with a feminine style and grace. She would watch old movies with you, “ooh” and “aah” at your new pedicure color and help you move your sofa (but only if you asked nicely). She would be one of your best girlfriends.

But she isn’t a living, breathing woman. Coco Irene is the brainchild of Chicagoans Veronica Sheaffer and Taryn Parker, two friends who wanted to combine their love of vintage movies and classic clothing into a line of attire for women. Looking to their own closets for inspiration (or what was lacking, to be more exact), the designers noticed a serious need for easy yet stylish outfits—the kind that would be perfect at Sunday brunch. The resulting collection features simple, demure, brunch-worthy dresses and tops that can be worn on a whim and still look chic. Picture a simple canary-yellow dress with a retro-esque silhouette, a white eyelet above-the-knee dress with ruffled sleeves or a brown-and-patterned reversible tank top. Now on their sophomore collection, they’ve already turned heads in the style world, catching the eye of the editors at Lucky magazine, which featured Coco Irene in their June issue with a catchy, photo-filled article.

While both gals have an eye for fashion, in this dynamic duo, Parker, 32, is the brains and Sheaffer, 28, is the brawn, so to speak. Parker utilizes her business background in managing Coco Irene’s logistics, while Sheaffer, who used to design for Bionica Fashions in New York and has her own line of handbags (Veronica Sheaffer Designs), creates most of the designs, with much input from Parker.

The true beauty of this line is in the affordability. Most shoppers are feeling the pinch from the economy, gas prices and other various economic upheavals, but Coco Irene allows you to buy that must-have dress and still pay your rent, too. Prices range from $72-$300, which, in custom-made-boutique-wear-speak, is very reasonable. Also making the stylish line a smart buy? Versatility and longevity. The sophisticated pieces of Coco Irene can be kept casual or taken up a notch, and stand out without being flashy. Plus, the pieces are classic and well-made, as not to go out of style or disintegrate after one season’s wear. (Beth Dugan)

Shop Coco Irene online at their Web site (cocoirene.com) and at Etsy (etsy.com) or see the goods in person at DIY mecca Wolfbait & B-Girls, 3131 West Logan, (312)698-8685, wolfbaitchicago.com.

Last week Fall Out Boy frontman Pete Wentz stepped out as the city’s frontman for this fall’s Fashion Focus Chicago. Wentz’s Clandestine Industries, here in Chicago, has emerged as a serious contender to clothe America’s youth in a manner sure to attract Ashlee Simpsons everywhere. But fashion fever must be contagious, for the band’s drummer, Andy Hurley, has just launched his own less mainstream-media-friendly line, Fuck City, with a modest run of tees and hoodies.

Daily Candy reports on the new dress-only boutique in Wicker Park, Le Dress. Chicago magazine’s Sales Check has also weighed in. We’re curious about the use of the masculine “le” instead of the feminine “la”…

Bold-colored Rock Candy rings. Sparkling Swarovski crystal bracelets in fourteen gorgeous hues. Dramatic, one-of-a-kind, twenty-two-inch Boucle necklaces. These are just a few of the hot-selling items from Objets d’Envy, a local jewelry line designed by Kirsten Goede that uses, primarily, awe-inspiring Swarovski crystals in the creations.

“The overwhelming reaction is, ‘Wow!’ because the Swarovski crystals are legendary,” says Goede, on the initial reaction to her pieces. “People look to see what the sparkle is.”

After being chosen as one of the featured designers in last October’s Designers of Chicago event at Macy’s, Goede’s line began to catch the eye of Chicago shoppers—not that they needed too much help. The bright colors, chunky shapes and light-catching crystals are hard to miss, and they satisfy accessory needs while offering a dose of cheer.

“[It’s] my happy bracelet,” says a loyal Goede customer of her favorite piece.

But it’s not just stylish Chicagoans who have taken notice of Goede’s work. Her jewelry has been featured on “The Today Show” and has been spotted around Hollywood on the likes of Susan Sarandon and other celebrities.

Goede, 41, a St. Louis native, came to Chicago in 1994. Before she was a jewelry designer, she was a graphic designer and made jewelry for herself for about five years. “I started doing it for myself to have unusual pieces to wear,” she says. She is mostly self-taught when it comes to designing jewelry, aside from one class and collaborations with other jewelry-making friends.

Strong sales have kept Objets d’Envy in Macy’s display cases since October, and with her creativity going strong, they’re likely to stay there, although she gives all the credit to the crystals. “I have the beauty of Swarovski crystals to start with,” she says. At work on her fall collection, Goede says we can expect more dramatic pieces incorporating oversized stones, lots of chain and plenty of grape, purple and cranberry colors. (Mary Susan Littlepage)

Find Objets d’Envy at Macy’s on State Street and on the company’s Web site, objetsdenvy.com. They will be featured at the City Sidewalk Sale on July 22 and July 23 at Daley Plaza.

“Oh my god, girl. What kind of shoes are you wearing?” Cecilia Tidlund is on her knees in front of me, examining my bare feet. She picks up one of my Converse All-Stars, examines the bottom for walking and weight patterns, then grabs the top and bottom and wrings it like a wet rag. It twists around itself easily. “You should never wear a shoe that you can actually wring out,” she says.

Tidlund, a native of Sweden, is the creator of Clogmaster, a line of traditionally Swedish clogs that has developed a devout following that includes celebrities Sandra Bullock, Dustin Hoffman and local chefs Rick Tramonto and Mindy Segal. Ditching her Los Angeles store for a week, she’s embarked on her annual clog-fitting road trip, setting up shop in a downtown Chicago hotel for an afternoon. The room is covered in rows of clogs, their styles and colors ranging from bright blue traditional clogs to patent leather sandals to suede open-toe heels. The enormous variety makes my heart skip a fashionable beat.

After a gentle admonishment over my sneakers, Tidlund scans the rows of shoes and selects a pair for me to try. At first their wood platform feels hard and the leather is tight, but after a few laps around the room I shudder to think of taking them off. Tidlund explains that her clogs have an arch support and proper rolling motion that supports my fallen arches, and wearing supportive shoes like clogs will take away some of my knee pain. What she says next worries me: “The foot problems that used to appear in 50- and 60-year-olds I now see in 20-to-30-year-olds.” She blames utterly unsupportive flip-flops, ballet flats and my aforementioned sneakers, and says that foot problems will lead to issues with ankles, knees, hips and alignment, and continual wear of an unsupportive shoe will cause a knee replacement twenty years earlier than normal. I want to throw my sneakers out the hotel window.

After thirty-one years in the business, Tidlund’s clogs are unrivaled (thanks in part to intense training with orthopedic surgeons). She’s the only clog-maker in the world to personally size and evaluate each client (which is why she doesn’t do Internet orders), then sends her meticulous instructions to a facility in Minnesota, the last place that makes custom clogs in traditional Swedish fashion. The orthopedic benefits are impressive, and doctors regularly refer patients with detached Achilles, fractured bones and plantar fasciitis to Tidlund.
Once I select a style, I make my other custom decisions: base, color, thread, stitch. The shoe will take three weeks to arrive, but I don’t care. Perfection takes time. (Molly Each)

Visit clogmaster.com to view Tidlund’s tour dates and to learn more about Clogmaster clogs