By Nicole Briese

This has been a hard fiscal year. Wall Street collapsed. Many lost their jobs. With a surge of Americans wondering how to pay the rent, the question of how to buy that new pair of jeans didn’t seem quite so important. In its place, a new question emerged: what’s a fashionista to do when she can’t afford to step out in style? Thanks to exchange stores like Crossroads Trading Company, the answer is simple: she can. Crossroads and company are stepping in to ensure that although your wallet may be empty, your closet doesn’t have to be.

While the rest of the retail world is suffering, Wicker Park store manager Jessica Blythe says Crossroads is thriving like never before. In addition to their regular customer base, Blythe says the store is “seeing a lot of people who have maybe never purchased secondhand.” A newfound need for lower price tags has made the idea of brand names at a discount wildly enticing to the masses, and Blythe says most are pleasantly surprised. “We’re having them come in and realize that it’s really good,” she says. “They’re seeing things that they would love to have. Those $200 Diesel jeans that you can’t afford now… they’re gonna be $50 or less.”

First-time sellers are also on the rise. “Sometimes you have things in your closets that‘re not old, but you’re not gonna wear them again,” Blythe says. Crossroads gives you the option to sell those items for your choice of cash or store credit. “It’s easy and it’s quick!” she says.

With three Chicago locales to keep fully stocked—one in Lincoln Park, one in Wicker Park and one in Evanston—Blythe says the two elements of the business are entirely co-dependant on one another. “You can’t have one without the other—they kind of go hand in hand,” she says. “We want to buy as much as we can from the customer.”

Make no mistake, though, this is not the place to drop your stained, worn five-year-old duds. Blythe is quick to point out that “secondhand” doesn’t mean necessarily mean “second rate.” “It’s not a thrift store,” she says. “We don’t just take any donation from anyone.” She isn’t kidding. Buying clothes from a potential seller isn’t exactly guesswork. “We try to take current trends and styles—things that people are wearing now. Things in the past year or two in really great condition,” Blythe says. To determine exactly which threads fit the mold, employees must be, above all, fashion savvy. “All of our employees are trained buyers,” she says. In order to compete with other exchange and retail stores alike, keeping up with the Joneses (or Marc Jacobses!) of the fashion industry isn’t an option—it’s a requirement. “It’s shopping the boutiques, it’s looking through the magazines…it’s a combination of a lot of things,” Blythe says. With a broad variety of both brands and shoppers, Blythe says buyers must also account for varying tastes. “We want to buy really great fashion for a wide range of people.”

Founded by Gerald Block and Chip Gerken in 1991, Crossroads has been on the Chicago scene for about four years. Joining local staples like Buffalo Exchange and Elliott Consignment, Blythe says Crossroads is largely distinguished by its level of excellent customer service. “We want people to stop in all the time,” she says. “We know people’s names, we have regulars. People feel really comfortable coming in, buying or selling.”

So what is Blythe buying and selling right now? “Right now we’re selling tons of boots,” she says, with an emphasis on “vintage style boots.” Winter coats are also in demand, preferably of the type with a uniquely fashionable detail, like toggle buttons. Blythe says vests are big for guys this winter, while girls are loving “longer tunic sweaters, cardigans and sweater dresses.” Both sexes, she says, are going gaga for the lumberjack look. According to Blythe, it’s all about “plaids and flannels.”

Crossroad Trading Company is located at 2711 North Clark, (773)296-1000; 1519 North Milwaukee, (773)227-5300; 1730 Sherman, Evanston, (847)492-9400, crossroadstrading.com.

“It was one percent intuition and ninety-nine percent luck,” admits Vive La Femme owner Stephanie Sack, about her decision to lower the prices at her boutique about eighteen months ago. But that flash of inspiration seems to be paying off for the effervescent Sack and her six-year-old boutique that caters to size twelve-to-twenty-four women. Sack, a veteran of the Chicago style scene and of Bucktown boutique row, says her fellow store owners are playing it close to the vest about how they are faring. But when the recession was just a nascent blip in the minds of central bankers everywhere, Sack lowered her prices from the $325-$65 range to $175-$35 range and that seems to have made all the difference.

“People are excited to find the prices lower, and I have no intention of raising them when this is over,” confides Sack.

There are a few industries that don’t suffer during recessions, but retail fashion usually isn’t one of them. Sack revealed that she has had to drop a few vendors, and push a little harder to get deals and to find items that represent the “Vive” look without going outside of her new pricing structure. And what is the “Vive” look? Sack explains that, “It might not be on trend, but it is always on style.”

Sack says people are still shopping, but they are being more careful. Instead of walking out with five or six items, they buy maybe one or two. And of those one or two items, it’s important to get more “style mileage” out of them. To that end, Sack is looking at classic, well-made items with the signature Vive La Femme pop. That would mean more black dresses, paired with different shoes and accessories for different looks, more chic sweaters to brave the Chicago winter, and more denim all around. Sack recommends classic, good quality pieces for every woman’s wardrobe, but pieces that have a lot of that style mileage.

The spring will bring warmer weather for sure, possibly a relief from some of the worst economic hardships, and Sack is curious to see what happens, but not really concerned. Sack promises, “If this is the nuclear winter of the economy, I’m going to sell mittens.” (Beth Dugan)

Vive La Femme, 2048 North Damen, (773)772-7429, vivelafemme.com

Top 5 Women’s Trends
Sheer
Satin
Slouchy
Bold
Leather
—Andrea Giampoli

Top 5 Men’s Trends
Retro
Bahama
Synthetic
Lean
Plaid
—Andrea Giampoli

Top 5 Women’s Accessories
The skinny belt
The patterned scarf
The long chain necklace with story-telling charm
The animal print
The hippie headband
—Andrea Giampoli

Top 5 Men’s Accessories
The buttoned cardigan
The fedora
The loafer
The cotton scarf
The old-school Ray-Bans
—Andrea Giampoli

Top 5 Worst Fashion Trends
Uggs (why won’t these die?)
Bangs
Earlobe stretching
Wearing leggings as pants and/or hosiery
Hipsters wearing scarves in warm weather just to look cool
—Garin Pirnia

Top 5 Trends We Hope Won’t Progress in 2009
From eighties retro to the shoulder padded suit jacket
From skinny jeans to skinny shorts
From leggings to knee high socks
From the Panama hat to the khaki fishing hat
From hobo to homeless
—Andrea Giampoli

By Kari Skaflen
It’s the party of the year, a farewell to the past 365 days, and a fresh start, a new year. We all know some of the best and biggest bashes take place on a night where bubbly, streamers and fireworks are mandatory. With all of this pomp come high expectations for the evening and pressure to shine. And for us girls, that means donning the perfect outfit. It’s a look that expresses a carefree enjoyment of the present and an optimism for the future. And in my humble opinion, the safe little dress just doesn’t cut it anymore. So we’ve compiled a photo collection of ten edgy, atypical New Year’s looks that are bound to turn heads and make a girl stand out in a sea of mini dresses. All looks are available at local boutiques, many of which are having killer sales—this is the time to splurge on a decadent New Year’s outfit that will carry you into the next year with sass.

By Sarah Klose

She wraps her head in a Persian shawl. The fabric once decorated the wall of her mother’s now-dilapidated mansion. As the walls crumble, Little Edie twists the shawl into a headdress and sinks into self-imposed isolation.

Little Edie Beale and Big Edith Bouvier Beale were the cousin and aunt of Jackie Bouvier Kennedy Onassis. They shared a glamorous life of manicured gardens, horseback-riding lessons and society balls in East Hampton. Jackie married a future President, but Little Edie became a creative, dysfunctional adult living in squalor with her indomitable mother Big Edith.
The life and fashions of the eccentric daughter and mother come to life in “Grey Gardens,” a 1975 documentary film turned into a Tony Award-winning Broadway musical now in its Chicago premiere at Northlight Theatre, directed by BJ Jones. The  film has long been a cult favorite and something of a legend in the fashion world, which raised the stakes, costume-wise, for its theatrical adaptation. The costumes in Act One reflect the carefree gaiety of 1941, while those in Act Two show the mental imbalance and deteriorating living conditions of the mother and daughter in 1973.

“Ultimately, we had to create two worlds,” costume designer Jacqueline Firkins says. For the first act, she brought 1940s glamour to the stage, based on photos of the period. Hollis Resnik dazzles as Big Edith in a flowing green silk caftan that Firkins rented. Handmade matching gold silk slacks wink beneath the frock. “Not many pieces match the script,” Firkins says. “With Act One, we made up a lot more. There isn’t exactly a photo of the mother in the kimono in her loungewear.”

In an engagement party scene, Resnik sports a pink custom-fitted 1940s dress purchased from a vintage shop. Young Edie sashays in a pale blue taffeta ball gown constructed by Firkins’ students at Loyola, where she teaches. Four strands of pale green pearls accent the dress. Ayla’s Originals in Evanston loaned the necklace to Northlight Theatre, and the theater promised to lock it up at night for the duration of the play. Earlier, Little Edie prances in navy-and-white-striped peek-toe pumps fastened with navy bows, borrowed from a Loyola production of “Guys and Dolls.”

For Act Two, Firkins’ designs reflect unhinged creativity. Grey Gardens mansion has deteriorated into a broken version of its former self, its garden overgrown with weeds and house overrun with cats, raccoons and garbage. Big Edith and Little Edie are broke recluses. Firkins watched the movie online and did freeze frames to copy the bizarre fashions. “We had to realize that people who know the cult film, know it really well. The challenge was to make sure the pieces looked as true to the film as possible,” she says.

The elderly Big Edith, expertly played by Ann Whitney, drapes men’s shirts over her chest, ties the sleeves in back, and throws a kimono housecoat over the ensemble. Little Edie’s skewed sense of reality bubbles to the surface in her bohemian oddball style of dress. She wears a series of red pieces called a marching outfit. Her girdle-like shorts are layered over ripped fishnet panty hose. On top of that is a cashmere skirt flipped upside-down, the seams cut open, the sides fastened with huge safety pins. This was how Little Edie dressed in East Hampton in 1973—three years before the Sex Pistols gave birth to the punk rock movement in the U.K.

Twisted sweaters or bath towels wrap around Little Edie’s head. Due to quick costume changes, Firkin says, “You have to fake it. You have to simulate the idea.” The head scarves are decorated with decorative gold brooches bought from Grey Gardens Online. Ayla created one in conjunction with the play; it is on display in the theater lobby and sells for $250.

Little Edie referred to her style of dress as revolutionary, and it may well be so. Designer Todd Oldham mentioned her as an influence, and John Bartlett said he watches the “Grey Gardens” documentary every four months. Jennifer Lopez has imitated Little Edie’s head wraps. In October 2007, Harper’s Bazaar featured a “Grey Gardens” fashion-inspired layout of Lauren Hutton and Mary-Kate Olsen. In September 2008, Italian Vogue wrote about Edie Bouvier Beale and posted photos of her fashion style.
Little Edie’s style, and her story, live on in film. The 1975 documentary film “Grey Gardens” by the Maysles brothers captured the bickering, codependent pair shortly after the health department raided their home. The 2006 sequel, “The Beales of Grey Gardens,” contained unreleased footage from the 1970s. The documentary about the making of the Tony award-winning musical (“Grey Gardens: From East Hampton to Broadway”), premieres on PBS on December 23, 2008. And then, of course, there is the Hollywood adaptation. Drew Barrymore and Jessica Lange star as the eccentric daughter and mother in that movie, to be released in 2009.

The fashions can be seen in “Grey Gardens” at Northlight Theatre, 9501 Skokie Blvd, Skokie , (847)673-6300, through December 28.

Corso Como Sadie riding boot from Akira

By C.J. Arellano

Though clothing is a necessity, fashion is a luxury. If the industry depends on our fixation with glamour, frivolity, escapism, fantasy and money, how does America dress itself when we’re suffering from a deficit in all of the above? Opinions abound on how dire economic trends are steering fashion trends this season, but one thing’s for certain: prepare for a fashion season branded with the B-word—basics. Basic garments, basic colors, basic footwear, basic spending habits. When it comes to living in an economic downturn, our full-length mirror is shaped just like square one.

“Right now, people are purchasing things that are classic and that are never going to go out of style because they know that next year, next spring, next fall, it’s something they can still pull out of their closet,” says Sarah Herold, shoe manager and stylist at the Akira Chicago women’s boutique on Diversey. “People aren’t nearly as willing to jump aboard on trends, especially if it’s going to cost a little more.”

Herold points to shoes as an example: though fringe is one of the latest hot trends on the shelves, customers are walking off in Akira’s more fashionably durable riding boots instead.

So buyers are responding to a recession with reasonable behavior: they’re spending safer and spending less. Designers are doing their best to keep up. “I think that many designers are going back to basics in an effort to make versatile pieces that can support any wardrobe,” says Jote Kaur Mahern, designer for Sunia Natural Fibers. Chicago-based designer Sarah Matouchi notes that even the fashion press is trying to stay accessible: “When I picked up the latest issue of Vogue, they had a section about shopping on a budget…and the average fashion magazine reader knows there’s nothing budget about Vogue. I feel the industry is definitely trying its best to survive this crisis, and the only way to do that is to be smart about what people really need right now.”

As a result, on the runways last month—in Chicago as well as major fashion capitals New York, Paris and Milan—collections were splashed with separates rendered in blacks, whites, beiges or more subdued and classic patterns like plaid. (Have you been noticing the preponderance of plaid jackets on pedestrians this season?) Some designers took the mood of the global economy one step further with hard-edged sci-fi-themed garments. One of the most-talked-about collections, Nicolas Ghesquiere’s stunning Spring 2009 line for Balenciaga, presented a flock of models who looked like an army of strange, destructive robots. In an interview with Style.com, actress Selma Hayek likened them to a “new race—the Balenciaga race.” Are we officially in the age of dystopia chic?
On a less extreme level, Dannia Altemimei, a 20-year-old undergrad attending Loyola, notices that trends among her fashion-conscious pals are also veering back toward the dark and angry: “Grunge is totally coming back in, like with destroyed jeans, flannel shirts, plaid and neutral colors,” she observes. “I really think it has to do with how our generation feels about the country, because the last time the style came about, it was Gen X, who totally had no faith in government.” She also points out that the style is relatively inexpensive to produce and maintain.

Basic black, sci-fi, grunge—the fashion landscape can’t be all this depressing, can it? On the contrary. Several clothiers and their customers are supporting cheery optimism in the face of the country’s current economic crisis. “I find color all over the market, which might indicate the wish for change,” says Marsha Brenner, executive director of Apparel Industry Board, Inc., who doesn’t believe that the economy is driving current fashion trends on a significant level. “Those that drive the industry—the consumers—merely want a little color in their lives.”

Vatit Virashpanth brought color to Fashion Focus Chicago

Last month during Fashion Focus Chicago’s Allure of Couture show, the ready-to-wear line Vatit Itthi presented a standout collection rendered in basic neutrals as well as bright and vibrant colors—colors that actually moved the audience to applause upon their gradual appearance on the runway. “When we showed our Spring and Summer 2009 lines both in Chicago and Bangkok [at Elle Fashion Week], the response of the audience to the bright color section was overwhelming,” says co-creator Vatit Virashpanth. “The situation of the world economy right now is kind of boring for a lot of people. For us now, anything that can make us feel a little bit lighter, let’s do it. Beautiful things help. Trust us.”

When Donatella Versace dedicated her 2009 Spring/Summer collection to Barack Obama at her Milan show, it was an seamless melding of fashion and politics. Similarly, finding the perfect accessory to proudly announce your chosen political candidate shouldn’t seem like a tacky add-on to your otherwise stylish wardrobe. With the election just around the corner, there’s time to pick up some tasteful gems that say: “I’m an American. I have an opinion. And I have a chic way of supporting it.”

BUTTONS
You’re seeing your candidate all over the place, so why not put him where you can always see him—pinned to your lapel? If you want variety, Politcalshop.com is your button go-to. Regardless of your chosen candidate these buttons have it all. The looks range from luxe-looking to simple-yet-sophisticated fonts on adorable circular pins. Go ahead—pair your Prada bag with one of these buttons. The quality aesthetic of the pins makes it a politically correct pairing.

For Obama lovers, MoveOn.org offers three design-friendly styles of mini-buttons for you to sport. The best part? The initial order of buttons is free. If you distribute them all over town, you pay just a little for another batch and the proceeds go to benefit the awareness of Obama’s campaign for 2008—as if there are those who haven’t heard of him.

T-SHIRTS
If you’re digging for a political t-shirt that doesn’t conflict with your Diesel jeans, Zazzle.com offers a variety of styles and designs to suit your personal aesthetic. Like many popular “design your own t-shirt” sites, you’re able to determine your own fit, color and size. Plus, the tees sport graphics that look like they fell off a limited-edition run from a local boutique.

Want to keep your support on the down low, but still support the cause? Voteapparel.com is totally with you. The four-color-option American Apparel t-shirt comes with a fun—yet dapper—logo that reminds your apparel gazer to “vote” in bold white attractive letters. The shirt comes in a of variety of sizes and styles. Plus, you won’t risk coming under fire from your opposing political party just for encouraging people to vote. (Byron Flitsch)

Our Pride Parade is about more than just celebrating Chicago’s out and proud citizens—it’s also the best place to spot true sartorial brilliance. But whether your fashion sensibilities lean big and bold, or veer more subtly stylish, nothing is hotter than incorporating a bit of philanthropist chic into any ensemble. On Sunday, when milling through the swarms of proud gay/lesbian/bisexual/transgender folk, make a statement in some of these top designs we found at a variety of GLBT organizations. Because being sensitively fashionable is so in.

Homos are a Hoot
This Chicago-based t-shirt (originally designed for National Coming Out Day) was such a hit that the designers went into multiple reprints to keep up with the heavy demand. If you’re not already in love with the slogan, you’ll fall for the adorable chocolate brown owl on this baby-pink vintage-cut t-shirt. A large chunk of the money raised by the purchase of the shirts goes to local community organizations that help fund LGBT equality. (homosareahoot.com, $17)

Christian Siriano’s Fierce Equality Tee
“Project Runway” champ (and king of the catch phrase) Christian Siriano has teamed up with the Human Rights Campaign to create an insanely stylish one-hundred-percent organic t-shirt that flaunts a hand-drawn design of “Fierce Equality,” a superhero Siriano created just for this collection. Think a high-end version of a Threadless t-shirt. Two color options—gray and a basic off-white—will make it easy to pair with any wardrobe item. Here’s the best part: it’s signed by Siriano. You’re literally wearing a piece of art. (hrc.org, $38)

Until There’s a Cure Sterling and Leather Cord Bracelet
Through all the Pride Weekend fun we can’t forget the bigger issues. Until There’s a Cure, an AIDS support foundation, worked with New York jewelry designer Kerry MacBride to create a chic, high-end bracelet that looks like it stepped out of a boutique accessory case. Featuring a sterling silver plaque etched with an AIDS ribbon strung on leather cord, this accessory will dress up any outfit. (until.org, $95) (Byron Flitsch)

Finding the perfect add-to

Clothes may make the man, but his accessories allow him to flaunt his personal style. Guys, give your summer look a fashionable boost by stocking up on a few of our favorite wardrobe necessities.

Wallets
You use it multiple times a day; shouldn’t it be something you adore? Eschew the classic brown/black leather and kick it up a notch with a Blue Alessandro bi-fold wallet ($89, Stitch, 1723 North Damen, stitchchicago.com). It’s made from light-blue Safiano leather and it’s scratch resistant. Prefer something a bit more conversational? Check out the Duct Tape Wallet. It’s DIY with style. ($24, Flight001, 1133 North State, flight001.com).

Belts
You know the rule: one in brown, one in black—but no one says that belts have to be as dull as discount-store lighting. The Orciani brown belt elevates any pair of pants into instant high fashion. With a loop clasp and perforated leather, quality is in charge. ($134-$184, Hejfina, 1529 North Milwaukee, hejfina.com). Funk it up a bit with a PS belt from Paul Frank. It’s silk screen-type detailing will have heads turning towards your waistline. ($200, Paul Frank, 851 West Armitage, paulfrank.com).

Watches
Though simple, shiny metal watches are a classic accessory staple, there are chic, less traditional alternatives as well. Interested in architecture and famous designers? Try Karim Rashid’s “Kaj” watch, specially designed for Alessi. It comes in multiple colors and its polyurethane craftsmanship adds an industrial edge. ($85, Alessi, 611 North State, alessi.com) Still want something classic, but not cut-and-pasted straight from other arms? Try a Tateossian. This London-based designer uses rich leather and an articulate face design that will make any outfit pop. ($100 and up, His Stuff, 5314 North Clark, hisstuffchicago.com).

Sunglasses
Sunglasses are stylish all year around, but with summer coming this accessory is your new best friend. Just remember—it’s all about the face. Round-faced folks, try Aldo’s gold “Durwin”-rimmed tinted Aviators ($12, Aldo, 605 North Michigan, aldo.com) For an oval face, traditional round frames work best, and the Chad style from Jack Spade is a perfect fit. ($150, jackspade.com). Those with the longer faces can don the square frames, so take a chance with Ben Sherman’s “Wayfarer” square shades. ($115, Urban Outfitters, 935 North Rush, urbanoutfitters.com).

Ties
Ladies have shoes to complete their outfit. Guys have ties. End the “I found it at a department store” look and start with something fresh and multi-functional that transitions easily from work to drinks. The Yoko Deveraux Jersey tie, which comes in multiple colors and patterns, is affordable while maintaining stylish high-end sensibilities. ($33, yokod.com). (Byron Flitsch)

You’re buying locally grown organic foods, riding your bike to work and your entire house is outfitted with energy-saving light bulbs. Cool. Now take your eco-friendly attitude to your wardrobe. Just in time for Earth Day, plenty of eco-chic clothing and accessories are hitting the shelves in emerging spring/summer 2008 collections. If working Earth-consciousness into your wardrobe is on your to-do list, here are a few must-have items. The best part? These vegan/organic/recycled pieces save the Earth without sacrificing a sliver of style.

Vegan handbags by Matt & Nat
Banning the use of any animal products, including fur, leather and wool, Montreal-based Matt & Nat creates handbags that are fashionable, functional and cruelty-free. Their synthetic leather is as soft and supple as anything real (no, seriously), and the bags are peppered with unique details such as antique silver hardware and faux-suede linings. Taking eco-friendly to the next level, their spring collection features bags created entirely from recycled plastic water bottles and recycled cardboard.
Available at Lori’s Designer Shoes, 824 West Armitage, (773)281-5655. View more at mattandnat.com.

Del Forte Denim
According to Del Forte’s Web site, it takes two-thirds of a pound of pesticides to make a single pair of jeans, and exposure to these chemicals is as harmful to agricultural workers as it is to Mother Earth. That’s why all of Del Forte’s denim—from low-rise to high-waisted, colored to traditional blue—is created using organically grown cotton. Desiring a relationship with the people who grow their materials, Del Forte has teamed up with The Sustainable Cotton Project, which helps support organic farmers. So by donning a pair of these super-soft jeans (available in a variety of styles) your environmental impact reaches far and wide.
Available at Pivot Boutique, 1101 West Fulton Market, (312)243-4754. View more at delforte.com.

Green Karat Jewelry
A little dose of the shiny stuff is essential to any ensemble, and thanks to Green Karat, you can stay eco-savvy down to the smallest accessory. This eco-conscious company uses recycled metals in all of its stunning creations, aiming to lighten environmentally destructive mining practices. Its gems are (impossible-to-tell) synthetics, as the company hopes to one day eliminate diamond mines altogether, which are harmful to both the environment and the workers. The necklaces, bracelets, earrings and rings range from flirtatiously fun to simply stunning, and Green Karat even offers a wedding collection of ecologically responsible engagement and wedding rings.
Available at greenkarat.com. (Molly Each)