Opening night of the Democratic National Convention, and Michelle Obama is scheduled to speak. Pundits are in a tizzy: will she be able to convince middle America that she’s one of them, that she loves her country, her family and her god enough to earn their votes? By the time she’s finished, even the skeptical have been sold. She’s answered every lingering question except one: where did she get that fabulous dress?

Of course, it was already well-publicized that the would-be future First Lady was a fan of Chicago designer Maria Pinto, and that alone, given the extraordinary national obsession with all things Obama, gave a priceless boost to Chicago’s fashion culture. After all, Obama obviously had the means to buy from just about any designer she wanted; the fact that she chose Pinto as her style muse sent a clear signal that you don’t have to hail from New York to get attention. Not since Oleg Cassini helped shape the Jackie Kennedy style had a designer and (potential) First Lady been so closely connected.

“Contrary to popular belief, Chicagoans are highly attuned with the fashion world.”—Sheri Roney, SoKo Fashion

At the beginning of this month, more than a thousand apparel buyers, designers, media types and all-round fashionistas each day gathered for five nights inside a tent in Millennium Park to watch runway fashion shows that comprised the cornerstone of Chicago’s four-year-old version of fashion week, called Fashion Focus Chicago. Set against the backdrop of unprecedented carnage in global financial markets, the events couldn’t avoid a bit of an “end-of-empire” air—and we’re not talking about the empire waist, which seems to be doing just fine.

Dying economy or not, there’s no denying the excitement that large-scale fashion shows bring, with their bright lights, booming beats and models strutting down runways. Spend nearly a week watching show after show and it’s hard not to feel like something’s happening here. But is it? I decided to ask the question. In addition to a lengthy conversation with Melissa Gamble, the director of fashion arts and events for the city (often described as the mayor’s “fashion czar”), I sent a short email survey to nearly 200 local boutique owners and managers, as well as thirty or so local designers, most of them past winners of the “Fresh Faces in Fashion” designation awarded by GenArt, one of the marquee events during Fashion Focus Chicago. The consensus? Progress has been made, but there is still much to be done.

“Kingsley Handbags business is booming. We attribute it to getting the word out via events like Fashion Focus where we were featured in Gen Art, trunk shows, knowing our clients personally, good media coverage and word of mouth on the street. Our clients are passionate about supporting independent designers.”—Lisa Kingsley

Of course, on a retail level, Chicago has always been a fashion center. The longstanding presence of Michigan Avenue and Oak Street, with their mix of national luxury retailers and global retailers, has long established the city as the Midwest’s shopping destination. More recently, the spread of retail culture into the city’s neighborhoods reflects a dramatic increase in the appetite for sophisticated fashion on an everyday basis for many Chicagoans. Take a walk north on Damen from Milwaukee Avenue and you’ll be hard-pressed to contend that fashion is not thriving in Chicago.

While most boutiques don’t have the sales volume to make or break a designer, they can be important allies to designers just starting to establish themselves. In many cases, like Lara Miller with p.45 and Cyndi Chan with Casa De Soul, the boutiques are like incubators, giving the designers substantial access to the sales floor and, accordingly, direct customer feedback. In some cases, the relationship is even more symbiotic. Stephanie Sack, owner of plus-size boutique Vive la Femme, houses the designer Redskew’s studio in the store’s basement.

“I was a ‘Chicago is Red Hot’ participant in 2004 and from that gained the courage to open up my shop. I personally love carrying local designers and feel like it is something tourists ask for. They want to purchase something made in the city they are visiting.”—Laura Kitsos, Gem Jewelry Boutique

Fashion is far from a monoculture; it’s actually a collection of hundreds of niches. While the contemporary couture featured in the pages of Vogue dominates the conversation, many niches thrive. Lingerie, sneakerhead-streetwear, hats and, as Sack points out, “my area of interest, plus sizes, are completely ignored in Chicago, as with everywhere else.” Not for lack of a market we suspect, though we saw just one designer using plus-size models during Fashion Focus. Add in bridal, menswear and the wide range of styles that reflect ethnic and age diversity, and you can understand the challenge in presenting the city’s fashion culture over the course of just five runway shows.

“Chicago has a lot of potential to be known for innovative and talented designers—I think part of that is because of the many schools turning out talented designers. The key is making the city a place that is nurturing to keep those young designers here.” —Annie Novotny, Frei Designs

With a few exceptions, Fashion Focus Chicago tends to serve more as a launching pad for new designers than anything else. Of course, this partly reflects the explicit mission of GenArt’s Fresh Faces show which kicks off the week and dominates the publicity, but that theme carries through the student show and, to a large extent, the Macy’s Designers of Chicago show, which gives half of its exposure to Chicago’s fashion incubator participants. This also reflects the current challenge facing Chicago as a design center: in order to establish the city as more than a place to get started before taking off for New York, the city needs a body of designers who show new collections year after year, and build a following at retail, in the press and with the public.

This is not a problem confined to fashion design, of course. Those of us in the arts know dozens and dozens of creatives in theater, art and music who did great work here but then left town for more exposure. Chicago can’t be New York, at least any time soon, and if a designer feels destined to be the next Marc Jacobs, he or she’ll inevitably decamp for one of the global fashion capitals. Those folks notwithstanding, the challenge is to create career-long opportunities for designers here. Of course, there have long been designers who have made careers here, typically with a focus on custom work at the higher end of the pricing spectrum. That’s a limited market, however, and the future certainly lies in a stronger market for ready-to-wear.

“While I still have a home in Lincoln Park, I found it necessary to also have a home in New York City to expand my reach and get closer to the epicenter of fashion. I currently spend the majority of my time in NYC and Italy and believe that to plan on the national and global stage you need have that access. Chicago has done a very nice job of creating activity and interest around fashion. I think lots of opportunities still exist to strengthen the core of fashion and create serious and meaningful advances for designers to use as launching pads.”—Women’s footwear designer and former GenArt Fresh Face Elizabeth Brady

When the mayor launched his fashion initiative, he hired Melissa Gamble into the Department of Cultural Affairs. Her role to date has been more like that of her peers dedicated to theater or culinary events, as opposed to commerce. However, she recognizes the need for more than anecdotal data in advancing the cause of apparel in Chicago, and says it’s being gathered, but to date no data is available to measure the magnitude of apparel business in Chicago, from the standpoint of design and manufacturing nor retail, either in sales volume or jobs.

While the business data is not readily available, one of the strongest elements of the city’s activity to date has been in developing support mechanisms for business development. Fashion designers typically have the constitutional makeup of artists, which is why so many of the more successful brand-name designers develop close partnerships with business mentors, like Marc Jacobs and Robert Duffy. Without a Duffy, a designer has to be both artist and entrepreneur, a rather daunting challenge. The city and private enterprise are helping in this area, through the Chicago Fashion Incubator program, the Stitches Fashion Program and through educational seminars incorporated into Fashion Focus Chicago, some produced by the Chicago Fashion Foundation.

“I am thrilled that designers are discovering the amazing opportunities that Chicago has to offer as a fashion center. Its reputation is growing internationally, and the city itself is really putting an effort to provide designers with the ability to have as successful of a career here as in other major fashion cities.” —Laura Hubka, milliner

If ever there was a moment for Chicago to stake its claim as a fashion center and cultural capital, this is it. The worldwide interest in Millennium Park, the campaign to bring the Olympics here and, of course, the native-son phenomenon that is Barack Obama, all combined with our cultural and culinary prowess, have created a growing global curiosity about all things Chicago. Now is our moment. And as they say on “Project Runway,” “In fashion, you’re either in or you’re out.” We’re in.

[Images above from the Maria Pinto segment of the Allure of Couture at Fashion Focus Chicago 2008]

See also “Fixing Fashion Focus Chicago” and “The New Look“

The roster for the Make a Statement: Design for the Cure runway show reads like a who’s who of Chicago design: Lara Miller, Melissa Serpico, Kate Boggiano, Kristin Rosynek Hassan of organiK Revolution and Lydia Wachowska of Evil Kitty are just a few of the designers contributing time and designs to the fashionable fundraiser. For Boggiano, it was an honor to use her talents for a good cause. “It’s great that Chicago is focusing on fashion, but it’s great too that charities are using fashion shows as a way to raise money.”
In its second year, the Make a Statement runway show is the primary event for the AIDS Foundation of Chicago’s Junior Board, an organization that aims to raise AIDS awareness among 21-35-year-olds (particularly awareness for National Testing Day on June 27). For that young demographic, a style-related event was a perfect fit. “A fashion event is an effective, fun way to bring young people together and educate them on HIV and AIDS,” says Junior Board VP Patrick Marsden. The 2007 event drew more than 200 attendees, and this year’s promises to exceed 300, with VIP tickets long since sold out. Last year, each designer received a similar swatch of red fabric and was asked to create a signature garment. But this year the Board has switched things up, allowing designers to show off designs of their choosing. “You’ll see a really diverse range of styles from even more designers this year, which will allow a more fresh, entertaining show,” Marsden says.
Hosted by Project Runway alum Stephen Rosengard, the show will kick off with a parade of clever AIDS awareness t-shirts, modeled by members of the Junior Board, emblazoned with sayings such as “condoms: for wieners, not wallets” and “AIDS apathy makes your ass look big.” In addition to the local design showcase, guests will also enjoy an open bar, hors d’oeuvres, live entertainment and can contribute further to the cause via a raffle and silent auction. (Molly Each)

The Make a Statement: Design for the Cure takes place May 8 at Le Passage, 937 North Rush, (312)255-0022. 7pm-10pm. $50 in advance, $60 at the door. Visit aidschicago.org/events for tickets and more information.

330 S. Dearborn, (312)212-8860, florodora.com (1 votes, average: 5 out of 5)
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Goods: Clothing and accessories for women; also home goods, stationery and candy. Designers: Dresses and separates from Twinkle by Wenlan, Nougat London, Sita Murt, Sofada and local designers Lara Miller and Frei Designs. Owner: Michael Blossom opened Florodora in the Monadnock Building, where his grandmother worked as an office girl in 1917. He named the store after the famously beautiful chorus girls in “Florodora,” a musical comedy from 1899. Vibe: With silk, tasseled lamps, a red-velvet chaise lounge, floors shellacked in floral paper and a display of sweet-smelling soaps perched in an antique sink, the shop feels like it could be the apartment of a turn-of-the-century temptress. The Look: The clothing selection—defined by silky, touchable fabrics, dainty bits of lace and velvet and fine tailoring—is perfect gear for a modern Florodora girl. Shopper’s Perks: Preferred customers are privy to special discounts. Get discounted alterations on Florodora merchandise at the dry cleaners across the hall. The Thing for Spring: Dresses abound at Florodora, with creations by Anni Kuan and Twinkle standing out in a crowd.

Florodora

1643 N. Damen, (773)862-4523, p45.com (No Ratings Yet)
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Goods: Clothing and accessories for women. Designers: Clothing by Elijah, Michelle Mason, Marlova, Inhabit, Rebecca Taylor, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Deener Jeans and Lara Miller; jewelry by Toki Collection and Sarah McGuire. Owners: Original owners Tricia Tunstall and Jessica Darrow opened p.45 in 1997; the shop was one of the first boutiques on Damen Avenue. When Jessica left to pursue a life in nonprofit endeavors, Judy Yin became Tricia’s partner. Vibe: Exposed brick walls, recycled rubber floors and steel table frames set a tranquil stage. The sales staff is personable, polite and never overbearing. Price Range: Expensive. The Look: T-strap shoes, adorable hats and bits of lace dress a lady for a downtown tea party. More subdued pieces in the p.45 collection let her rule the workplace in city-sleek, sophisticated gear. Shopper’s Perks: Onsite events range from book readings to trunk shows. The Thing for Spring: A recent remodel has given p.45 a more urban, modern face, perfect for showcasing some of the industry’s best designers.

p.45

It’s a slightly less frigid Saturday afternoon, and I’m on the second floor of a brick Lincoln Park building. Racks of clothing and tables of jewelry are lined neatly around the room, a DJ spins and the small crowd of shoppers is eager to score brand spankin’ new spring pieces or ridiculously marked down samples from designers like Earcandy, Serpico, Lara Miller and Little Black Dress. It’s the very first Ultimate Designer Trunk Show from Studio 808, an online boutique devoted entirely to the creations of Chicago fashion and accessory designers, and as women dash in and out of the fitting rooms with their finds, it’s clear the energy here is full of more passionate excitement than at any chain retailer.

Studio 808 is the brainchild of Erin Creany, a former stylist and rabidly devoted fan of Chicago designers. An East Coast native, Creany wanted to share our emerging talent with friends and clients back home, making access to an Orlando Espinoza dress as simple for a Brooklyn babe as for a Wicker Park gal. The site features three core designers, Espinoza, Miller and Melissa Serpico, while Creany will weave in new names each season. For shoppers the site is designed to make the unique, fashion-forward designs available across the world. But the artists benefit from more than just exposure. “It’s also a testing ground for emerging designers to see what will sell.” Naturally, the Web site of a former stylist is about much more than buying a single piece. The site offers style advice as well as an online stylist, whose expertise can help you craft the perfect head-to-toe look. “There are pieces of Serpicos that will work well with a Lara Miller. So I focus on the whole picture, the whole outfit.”

While Creany plans on hosting quarterly trunk shows (look for the next one in June), her focus in the meantime is on not only bringing Chicago fashion to the masses, but offering an extra boost to designers on the brink. “There’s a definite need for this. Designers need a support system, an umbrella.” (Molly Each)

Visit studio-808.com for more information and a peek at the local talent pool.

Outside Fulton Market warehouse-studio Brickermade, spiny high heels totter along the gray, crumbled sidewalk strips. Girlish chatter bounces off the ordinarily spare, industrial soundscape. It’s a balmy Saturday afternoon with illusions of spring and the renegade sample sale dubbed “Savvy Shopper Approved” has ushered in a throng of shiny-haired, shrewd shoppers—thanks to price cuts on local and national threads. Balloons affixed to a small sign outside and notebook paper tacked on the studio door with hand-scrawled, red frenetic font (“SAMPLE SALE!”) lend to the air of excitement.

As I enter, I’m hit with the peaceful buzz of collective concentration and the delicate sound of hangers sliding leisurely along metal rails. While the sample sale concept is at the crux of coastal high-end fashion, Chicago doesn’t get much of the action; unfortunate, as these dramatically discounted showcases of extraneous merchandise (often including overstock and canceled store orders) are a godsend for the glamorous pragmatist. Luckily, organizer Janice Moskoff, owner of Beta Boutique, has big plans. “By fall next year, we’re thinking once a month,” she says. “We love the West Loop, but it depends on the space that’s available.”

Her enthusiasm is infectious: designer Lara Miller, a quiet forerunner of eco-friendly design since 2002, is on-hand at the sale, demonstrating the versatility of her organic dyed linens. As a handful of slinky women stand spellbound, Miller whips a sweater over her head for a mod, hooded look and then transforms it into a deep-cowl-neck top. “It’s more about a person’s body,” instructs Miller, as a creamy, key-hole-neck dress (priced down to $130 from $220) magically morphs into a low-backed turtleneck. A woman ogling Eskell’s silken blouses finally settles on a powdery gray one, speckled with tiny earth-toned birds (in the $100s from $373), while another seems relieved to find a gold-threaded dress from New York designer Maya for under a Franklin. Yes, options are limited, the sizes small (most run between three-to-five) and the prices still, well, pricey. But for some good, clean fun and reckless discounts, Savvy Shopper Approved is on point. (Libby Ramer)

Check savvyshopperapproved.com for information on upcoming sample sales.