The past is present in this year’s fall collections, with designers tapping every decade from the thirties to the nineties for inspiration. But it’s the decade that gave us tight-rolled jeans, shoulder pads and loud geometric prints that provides the aesthetic for this year’s Glamorama, and with an A-list runway roster and a post-show, back-to-the-eighties shindig, the event is shaping up to be as memorable as a pair of Hammer pants.

“Eighties has always been on the table [as a possible theme],” says Jennifer Wilkins, producer of Glamorama. But when choosing the theme nearly a year in advance, the Glamorama team could hardly know just how applicable the eighties would be this season. “We just happen to…hit the nail on the head. Not only are we having a great retro theme, but we’re seeing a lot of eighties inspiration in fashion for this season.”

Now in its tenth year, Glamorama is Macy’s annual style extravaganza, with proceeds benefiting the Art Institute of Chicago. Since its inception the event has raised nearly $2.3 million for the museum and its programs. The event is entirely Midwest-focused, with shows in only Minneapolis and Chicago, and features a runway show, a party and a post-party, where the entire seventh floor of Macy’s is transformed into a theme-related wonderland. This year guests can expect a trip back in time.
“In the show, the eighties theme is a little more tongue-in-cheek. You’ll see some of the references with the special effects and entertainment, and with the styling of the designers. But the party is completely full-out eighties, with everything from eighties music, to great lounge areas featuring Pac-Man, Rubix Cube and Donkey Kong. Our visual and production teams transform the entire seventh floor. There’s no other retailer that throws a party like this,” Wilkins says.

Designers featured this year include Marc Jacobs, Ports 1961, Tibi, Tommy Hilfiger and Donna Karan Collection. Each designer was chosen specifically by the Glamorama producers based on the relevance of their fall collections to the theme at hand. Along with the runway show, guests will be treated to performances from eighties icons Cyndi Lauper and MC Hammer, who will walk the red carpet outside the Chicago Theatre with other eighties celebrities (and a few modern day stars, too).

Knowing that no two fashion-lovers have the same needs, Glamorama offers a versatile array of ticket options and prices. Show-only tickets begin at $75, and go up to $195 with the after-party addition. Prices increase up to $1,000 for the ultimate VIP ticket. (Molly Each)

Glamorama takes place on August 22 at 8pm at the Chicago Theatre, 175 North State. Tickets are still available through Ticketmaster. Call (312)781-5454 for more information.

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On an average evening, as dusk settles in across the city, the Chicago History Museum closes its doors to field-trip groups, history buffs and curious tourists, and lies dormant for the night before welcoming them all back again in the morning. But on a recent Tuesday night the museum was the most bustling place in Lincoln Park, brightly lit and swarming with valets as rows of well-dressed folk made their way into the building. On this night, the museum was filled with Louboutains, mini dresses and champagne flutes, as industry members, Nordstrom regulars, press, socialites and fashion-philes gathered together to gear up for cool weather at the Nordstrom Designer Preview fashion show.

The annual event marks the first opportunity to view the new fall collections, which hit the floor at Nordstrom the very next day. Upon arrival, guests sipped cocktails and Veuve, dug into a sushi-filled buffet dinner and chatted excitedly before being whisked into an adjoining tent for the big presentation. The show, divided into eleven different “scenes,” featured collections from a variety of fashion’s heavy hitters: Burberry Prorsum, Peter Som, Nina Ricci, Missoni, Andrew Gn, Marc Jacobs, Tuleh, Stella McCartney, Donna Karan, Marni and Oscar de la Renta. Strutting out to thumping music amidst lightly colored lighting, the models (donning million-inch high heels from designers like Prada, Lanvin and Jimmy Choo) showed the crowd exactly what’s hot for this fall. Mod silhouettes, 1950s-inspired looks, a dose of sparkle, sleekly tailored coats and garments with plenty of movement dominated the runway. Nearly all the designers showed many neutral colored pieces (brown, grey and camel were popular colors), throwing in one powerfully colored piece—a plum sweater, a red pencil skirt, an iris halter gown—which often seemed to explode off the runway. Purple in all its shades—amethyst, iris, plum—was seen in many collections, and blue, rose and soft pinks also made appearances. A few of the showstoppers: Missoni’s teal cashmere belted minidress, Andrew Gn’s black-and-white tweed coat, Marc Jacobs’ utterly mod sky-blue jersey dress with beaded cuffs and a pebble-lurex-silk-chiffon one-shoulder dress from Stella McCartney. But arguably the take-your-breath-away piece of the night came from Oscar de la Renta’s grand finale. To the tune of Coldplay’s “Viva la Vida,” there emerged a brightly colored, small flower-patterned silk zibeline strapless gown with a flamenco hem. It stood out not only for the bright colors and unique silhouette, but because there wasn’t anything else in the show that even looked remotely like it.

Post-show, the crowd returned to the museum, where mini designer boutiques (and several fitting rooms) had been set up, and guests eagerly scooped up many of the items they’d just seen making a pass on the catwalk. But aside from alerting Chicagoans to the new fall trends and stocking the closets of our city’s fashion fans, the Nordstrom Designer Preview annually serves a greater purpose: to fund the Costume Council of the Chicago Historical Society and their educational and research programs. (Molly Each)

Line: Amberlynn Designs
Background: After a stint in the business world, Beach left to pursue her lifelong dreams of being a fashion designer. She graduated from Columbia College’s fashion-design program in May 2007.
The Pieces: Heavy on bright, bold colors and super-feminine cuts, the sassy designs combine an element of West Coast energy with a bit of southern flair. Beach describes them as “a punch of personality.”
Designer inspirations: Marc Jacobs, Vivienne Westwood, Zac Posen, Nanette Lepore
Chicago Inspirations: “The people. I love the diversity that’s here; the progressive, forward thinking. You’re surrounded by artistic, passionate people, and the city is so alive with so much energy and opportunities that it fascinates me. ”
On being a designer in Chicago: “There are lots of opportunities and organizations right now, and there’s a big sense of community; a support system.”
What to look for: A summer trunk show and the launch of the Amberlynn Designs online store.
Where to find Amberlynn Designs: Wolfbait and B Girls, couturecandy.com.

Line: Serpico
Background: Studied graphic design at Loyola University and while in her first job, found it wasn’t for her. Went to the School of the Art Institute for fashion design, graduated in May 2006 and unveiled her first collection just over a year later.
The Pieces: Classic designs that feature unique patterns, details and draping, high-quality fabrics and lots of experimentation with embellishments. “I like to use techniques that would have been made the same 100 years ago.”
Designer inspirations: John Galliano, Marc Jacobs, Karl Lagerfeld.
On being a designer in Chicago: “The press here is very generous. You meet people who are excited about your work and want to help.”
Chicago inspirations: Chicago architecture and the Art Institute, both the school and the museum. The different seasons, too. “In the dead of winter, you want to wear interesting clothing. It’s inspiring to keep winter clothing interesting.”
What to look for: A new Serpico studio/storefront opening up this June at 1514 N. Ashland, with room for both creating and hosting sales and events.
Where to find Serpico: Lissa on Maxwell, Michelle Tan, Totem (Hinsdale), M. Santana (Forest Park). Studio-808.com, melissaserpico.com

2639 W. Fullerton, (773)772-2007 (No Ratings Yet)
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Goods: Men’s and women’s designer resale and vintage clothing, jewelry, hats, shoes, coats and gift items like soaps and lotions. Designers: Marc Jacobs, Prada, Franco Sarto, Armani and dozens of vintage labels. Owner: Maria Morales took her personal collection of vintage items and filled a vacant storefront in her Logan Square building. Vibe: The hundreds of items are displayed in an organized clutter. Gorgeous pieces pull your attention from all corners, but Morales helps narrow the search for those on a mission. Price Range: Moderate. The Look: Like you just stepped out of a 1940s fashion magazine. Head-to-toe vintage makes a splash at a cocktail party, while an old-time purse or necklace is eye-catching anywhere you go. Shopper’s Perks: Morales will begin taking consignment in a few months.

Mia Mora

Ross Burton brings his makeup to Glamorama

By Jennifer Berg

Paris Hilton is one of Ross Burton’s most laid-back clients. “I was doing her makeup [for an event] and I asked her what she wanted me to do,” the celebrity makeup artist recalls. “She said, ‘I don’t know. What do you think? I just want to look beautiful.’” To a true artiste—and, as Lâncome’s National Artistic Director, Burton is just that—those words are license for a whole lot of fun. “I was like ‘I LOVE this woman!’” he exclaims.

A Michigan native, Burton moved to New York City (now his home base) upon graduating the University of Michigan circa “yearrrrs ago.” His mission: to become an actor. While studying at HB Studio, Burton enrolled in a class on theatrical makeup. “And of course,” he says, “makeup for the theater is very different from makeup for reality.” Suddenly, Burton understood makeup as “illusion, art and magic.”

Armed with his newfound interest, Burton “wandered into a little store called Macy’s Herald Square” and found work at the Lâncome counter. “I urge [blossoming] artists to venture into department stores and really learn their craft,” he says. “[At Macy’s,] I learned how to work with all skin tones, from chocolate to vanilla. I think if you can only work with fair skin, you’re not a real makeup artist.”

Needless to say, Burton hasn’t put down the makeup brush since the day he ventured into Herald Square, and he says that he’ll “always have a soft spot for Macy’s; it’s in my DNA.” So when he was approached about two months ago to develop a look for the models in this week’s Glamorama, his answer was “Absolutely.”

After accepting his glamorous mission, Burton met with Laura Schara (producer of Glamorama’s fashion segment) to discuss the looks that will be trotting down the runway on Friday. The fully choreographed show provides a peek at fall fashions from designers like Marc Jacobs, Moschino, Temperley London, Just Cavalli, Michael Kors and Alberta Ferretti. Models don’t have their makeup changed to go with each outfit, so Burton says he purposely created a look that “can look good with everything, from jeans to basic black to winter wear.”

The look Burton cooked up starts with the skin. But “not dewy skin,” he’s quick to say. “Matte skin is the perfect backdrop for the rich, beautiful fall trends. That way, there’s no competition between the skin and the textures.” Burton identifies those trendy textures as, “Creamy, wet blushes, metallic eyes, outrageous lashes” and, for lipsticks, both nude and red. On the runway, he says, “lips will be nude, nude, nude—then pop! Red!”

Though Glamorama is all about fantasy and spectacle, Burton had the “real woman” in mind when he designed the models’ makeup look. He says that “every woman can aspire to create” the faces they’ll see at Glamorama, and he has a few tips on the right products to pick up:

First, find a nude, creamy lipstick (or gloss) that lets the natural lip-color shine through. When it comes to swiping on that show-stopping red, Burton knows some women will be shy. On that, he says confidently, “There is a red for every woman. I tell women to let their fingers be their guide. Dip your finger into lipstick, trace it onto your lips, and use [the red] as a kind of stain at first.” After women have adorned themselves with that “burst of color,” Burton says they inevitably get compliments that have them applying straight from the tube in no time. (For those who want to get the exact Glamorama look, some of the products Burton will be using include Lâncome’s Le Khôl Liner in Black Ebony; Deep Black Hypnôse Mascara, nude Color Fervor Gloss in Engaging and Juicy Tube Smoothie in Cherry Burst.)

Beyond scoping out the Chicago Theatre’s runway for inspiration, Burton recommends looking through magazines. “Tear out the pages of looks that you like,” he advises. “Once you see something in print that you relate to, you can elevate yourself to that. Bring the pages into a store and work with a makeup artist one-on-one. It can be intimidating at first, but women should never be afraid to ask for help.”

Glamorama hits the Chicago Theatre, 175 North State, (312)902-1500, August 24, at 8pm. $50-$1000.